Bond Wardrobe Review 21: Casino Royale 2006
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Bond returns to his full self in black swim trunks with white stripes at the sides and a red stripe across the rear in a fit that rivals the blue trunks. These don’t have nearly as much prominence, but they are a superb choice again, especially to show that Bond is still in superb physical shape. The first two suit jackets have double vents, while the last three suits have single vents. It’s an odd choice to use single vents on the smarter suits, since double-vents are slightly smarter than single vents.
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I think the outfit is still a success, it would simply be if others in the scene dressed down as much as Bond did. This coat has beautiful details such as a belt and a flapped breast pocket. The raincoat is an unusual item for Bond, but this is a perfect coat for Bond.
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Other than the first suit, the rest of the suits are made by Brioni, all in the same cut. The jackets have the same cut as a the dinner jacket, but with three buttons on the front in a medium stance. Medium-width high-gorge lapels roll just through the top button, showing the button but opening the jacket down to the middle button.
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It has an appropriately modern look for Bond compared to the traditional tan raincoat. Craig’s muscular body in Casino Royale—the most extreme body of the Bond series—is difficult to tailor, both in getting the shape of the clothes to follow the body and in making it look elegant. I think that Hemming and Brioni did a good job at achieving a balance, though I think the shoulders and width of the trouser legs could have been attenuated.
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When Bond returns to the Bahamas he’s wearing a navy polo from Sunspel in their ‘Riviera’ mesh. This is one of the best looks of the film, especially due to how it revived the polo from the Connery era and defined it as a staple of Craig’s Bond wardrobe. The updated trim fit turned the polo into a fresh look, while the unique mesh knit with a self collar instead of a ribbed collar also removed many of the garment’s stodgy connotations. The trousers’ cut represents a short-lived trend for men that doesn’t hold up well now, but it doesn’t detract from the polo’s brilliance. Light blue swim trunks are a Connery Bond classic that return to the series in a fresh way.
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Though most of the t-shirts are luxurious t-shirts from Sunspel, that luxury doesn’t translate to an appropriate look for Bond. In the t-shirts he doesn’t look like he’s just getting started, he looks like he has given up. The dinner jacket and its corresponding dress shirt are some of the best in the series. The film stresses the importance of this outfit, and Lindy Hemming came up with a truly exceptional look. With the last two suits, Craig wears the John Lobb ‘Romsey’ plain-toe two-eyelet chukka boots in black calf. This is a beautiful boot that has more than enough grace to pair with a smart suit.
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Short-sleeve shirts again are a poor style choice, but it’s a Fleming Bond detail so in that manner it can be excused. It portrays Bond as a novice suit wearer, which makes sense in the context of the story. He does not wear a tie, which is an effective choice with a casual linen suit. They’re a rare occurrence of Bond wearing brown shoes with a navy suit, but they work perfectly here.
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There are some brilliant looks in Casino Royale, like the dinner jacket, the Sunspel Riviera polo, the blue swim trunks, the navy raincoat, the barleycorn topcoat. There’s little to suggest that Bond’s appreciation for fine clothes—and three-piece suits—should have come from his first mission as a Double-O . The symbolism in the wardrobe is too heavy handed, even if it resulted in a number of exceptional outfits.